By
George Testani and Ramaiah
Surprising? Not to those in the industry who know
beans about their coffee. Close to 300,000 tons of
it (and rising steadily) are produced annually. In
fact, the cultivation of coffee in India dates back
to 1600 A.D. when a holy man from India (Baba Budan)
brought six coffee seeds from Yemen and planted them.
Although India is primarily associated with tea, high
quality estate coffee production had been neglected
for the most part--until recently.
Riding the wave of this recent explosion from India
is a company called Plantation Direct Associates(PDA).
Owners of 400 acres for the past 30 years, this large
family-owned plantation is committed to informing
the world about Indian coffee. The plantations are
at elevations of between 4,000 - 5,400 feet located
on the windward side of the Western Ghats in the Chickmagalur
District within the Bababudangiri ranges. The high
altitude has a profoundly positive effect on the quality
of the coffees. However, it also presents many difficulties
for the farmers and skilled laborers. Yields of coffee
per acre are significantly less than those from plantations
at lower altitudes. Picking of the cherries on these
slopes is much more difficult as well as the transport
of these cherries to the curer. The soils are acidic
in nature and lateric in origin.
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They
are also rich in nitrogen and potassium; moderate in phosphorus;
and adequate in iron, manganese, copper and molybdenum.
They have also been supplied regularly with calcium, magnesium,
sulphur and zinc.
With respect to climate, the estate has an ideal annual
rainfall of 90-100 inches (well distributed from April
through November) and a dry spell from December to March/April
which helps in processing and in natural sun drying of
the Arabica coffee. The coffee is grown in the shade of
trees such as Dalbergia (Rosewood), Ficus, Silver Oak,
Jack and Albizzia.
The plantation owners are interested in not only the sustainability
of the land and coffee, but also that of the estate laborers.
To this end, they provide the workers with clothing, housing,
training, medical and other amenities as well as education
for the children. These provisions for both laborers and
children are rare in that many countries have not yet
fully embraced them.
Commercial Arabica A, B and PB are available from lower-elevation
plantations as well as Monsooned Malabar and washed Robusta,
whose production faces future problems as a result
of the Vietnamese crop and London markets' pushing its
price to an eight-year low.
Farmers are amazed that high-quality, high-altitude, shade-grown
coffee does not yet command the higher prices other nations
enjoy. Those offering the best coffee will find their
place in the Specialty Market as other farmers continue
to elevate the quality of their own coffee for greater
sustainability as well.
India Arabica coffees (grouped with "other milds"
in the International Coffee Market) are bestowed with
wonderful aroma, slightly acid body, smooth taste and
medium-to-full body without any harshness.
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